This river runner, rock climber and wilderness guide, who came to America from Germany to study cultural anthropology in Fairbanks, Alaska, has been writing about his adventures long enough to attract the attention of editors at internationally-known magazines, including Outside, Utne Reader, Backpacker, and of course Arizona Highways.

I was happy to discover that, like me, this author of several non-fiction books related to his adventures, Arizona’s included, is a fan of former Arizonan Ron Carlson, whose descriptive prose in his novels and short stories also reads like poetry to me. When I learned that, I became an instant fan of Engelhard’s.

Currently living in Alaska, where he works as a wilderness guide, Engelhard says he’ll be relocating (He’s lived here before.) to the Colorado Plateau — Flagstaff, specifically — next spring. When he returns, I hope to travel with him on one of his wilderness trips. You’ll know why if you just take a look at a few of his books or read his essays. This is a guy who appreciates the wilderness like not many can.

Besides, I like what he had to say about why he’s coming back to Arizona:

“The reason is simple: I just can’t get the canyon country out of my system. The redrock desert of southern Utah and northern Arizona has shaped me like no other place.

Years ago, I set out to explore 120 canyons within a year  (He actually hiked more!); a journal I kept grew in scope and morphed into my first book (Where the Rain Children Sleep). Arizona — its fauna, flora, geology, history, and mix of cultures — has been a wellspring of inspiration ever since.”

One of his favorite gems:

“The Grand Canyon is probably my favorite place in the state, which may not come as a surprise. More than the views from its rims, its many side canyons draw me in and wait with never-ending surprises: bighorn sheep, ancient rock art panels, pristine plunge pools, rare butterflies and reptiles, and above everything, the many colors of silence — a glimpse of eternity.”

He says the Grand Canyon is actually his favorite haunt in the world:

“Regardless of how many times I run its rapids, camp on its boulder-fringed beaches, or explore its convoluted passages, one lifetime is not enough to experience all its riches.”

And my favorite story of his involves a visit inside the canyon:

“A memory that will stay with me forever features a white pelican bobbing in an eddy below a rapid. Pelicans are not native to the canyon, and this one must have blown off course during its migration and touched down on the life-giving waters.”

If you want to read more or share Engelhard’s appreciation of Arizona’s natural beauty with others, visit www.michaelengelhard.com.

(Headshot and photo covers used with permission by Michael Engelhard.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

But not just any old chocolate bread. This one, the Chocolate Cherry Sourdough bread pictured here, was created by the resort’s own Master Baker Ben Hershberger.

Made fresh daily at The Phoenician (6000 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale), you can purchase yours on-site at either the Café and Ice Cream Parlor or at Il Terrazzo, a classic Italian-style restaurant. At $3.50 a loaf, it’s not only delicious (Trust me, I ate half the loaf in one sitting.), it’s also affordable. 

Rather than looking for someone to whom they can re-gift, your family and friends won’t be sharing this item. They’ll eat it all to themselves. TIP: Heat in the oven so the chocolate and rum-soaked cherries are nice and warm.

(Photo courtesy of The Phoenician Resort.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

1)  Buy local. The blog post referred to produce, but you can extend that further to buy local produce as well as purchase gifts, services and other products sold right here in the Valley of the Sun by small business owners who live here. Look for the red symbol you see pictured above, or find out what and where through the Local First of Arizona Web site. There are more than 700 members to serve you Valleywide, including the upscale Fifth Avenue Merchants Association in Scottsdale, the eclectic retail shop, Bunky Boutique, in downtown Phoenix, and the Farmers’ Markets where you will find locally grown, farm fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh flowers, and homemade jellies and jams.

2)  Hire local guides. No need to hire a national company if you want to sight-see in Arizona. Phoenix is home to many qualified, experienced insiders who can take you on day trips, half-day trips, or customize a trip to suit your needs. The Arizona Guides Association is a good place to start your search. You can also ask your hotel concierge to recommend a guide company. Or contact a local community college to find out about study tours. Pima Community College in Tucson offers several hikes, day tours and other special outings for less than the cost of a private guide. You can also locate a hiking club for upcoming trips or the Maricopa Audubon Society for field trip information.

3)  Use public transportation. If your family, friends or other relatives plan to extend their holiday visit, I suggest you all try out our new light rail system. It opens at the end of this month with free rides for all on December 27 and 28 . I said it before, and I’ll say it again: I can’t wait!

Not only will following these tips help cut the carbon footprint in Phoenix, but it’ll also go a long way towards keeping our small businesses open and our residents employed.

Cheers to you from The Phoenix Traveler!

(Above logo courtesy of Local First of Arizona.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

Mill Avenue in Tempe hustles and bustles with pedestrian traffic year-round. It’s not the place to go if you want peace and quiet. And though I’d say the majority of the people you’ll see milling around are Arizona State University students, urbanites from all over the Valley of the Sun head over on evenings and weekends to shop, dine at the many restaurants, hang out in the taverns, and walk, ride bikes or rollerblade over to Tempe Town Lake.

This coming weekend, however, pedestrians will flock to Mill Avenue–one of America’s “ten great streets” (American Planning Association, 2008)–for one of the city’s most popular attractions: Fall Tempe Festival of the Arts.

Since the Beatles had its #1 hit, “Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band,” on the radio 40 years ago, this festival has been the event holiday shoppers love to attend. I’ve been several times and still recall the gift I purchased for my sister the first time I went in 1988 (the 20th anniversary year). It was a hand-crafted Christmas Elf.

I don’t know if that booth’s still around, but here’s a sample of what I know you’ll experience while there this year:

_250,000 visitors, more or less, with lots of them pushing strollers, so watch out.

_more than 400 juried artists’ booths (woodwork, jewelry, paintings, ceramics, fountains, photography, textiles and more), so you know you’ll see quality work.

_food and beverages to purchase at the Food Court on 6th Street near Mill.

_street performers (stilt walkers and mimes, for instance).

_live entertainment (past performers have been local bands, including Gin Blossoms, Margo Reed, Walt Richardson and others).

_hands-on crafts and activities for kids, thank goodness.

_Arizona Wine Festival with tastings from several Arizona wine growers.

If you attend on Friday, stick around after hours for an added treat this year: the Anniversary Beatles Tribute. It takes place at the Arizona Wine Festival Jazz Stage, with Beatles tribute music played by cover band Apple.

IF YOU GO:

WHAT: 40th ANNIVERSARY FALL FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS

WHEN: December 5-7, 10 a.m. to Dusk

WHERE: Mill Avenue in Tempe

ADMISSION: Free

PARKING: Free at Rio Salado Parkway & Hardy Drive, just east of Priest Drive on the north side of Rio Salado Parkway. A free shuttle runs every 15 minutes. (map it)

If you don’t want to hassle with that, nine paid parking garages or lots surround the downtown area, closer to the festival. But still, plan for a lot of walking and wear comfortable shoes.

(Photo of Mill Avenue Festival courtesy of Tempe Convention & Visitors Bureau.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

In a deal with city of Phoenix, developers reap profits from the sales taxes paid by consumers who will be shopping and dining here–50 percent of the profits, I read online. That’s a lot of dough to give away, and I can see why people are upset, what with the term “bailout” becoming the norm for government and big industry these days.

But since that’s not my expertise, I’ll just focus on what I saw first-hand so you might get a taste of what you’d see if you go. We’ll just stick to the travel aspect, in other words.

The grand opening happened this week, and I convinced my boyfriend to come with me last night to see why the mayor’s office thinks this was such a great idea. Well, to be sure, what we saw was just another shopping mall with stores and restaurants and really expensive condos for rent and for sale. It kind of reminded me of a toned-down (in some respects) Kierland Commons. Of course, it’s not fully built yet, and with the economic downturn, Phase II has been delayed. I can’t envision what it will look like when fully built. With all the lights turned on, you can call it a bright spot in the middle of barren desert for now.

We did tour the condos, built directly over the shops, instead of in separate buildings as at Kierland. And they’re nice, if, as my boyfriend said, “you wanna live at the mall.” Okay, well, some people do. But I probably wouldn’t pay the $2,500 rental fees or the $600,000 purchase price to live there (Just a few numbers we read on the fliers.). But, hey, if you are into this sort of living arrangement, it might be worth a look. Otherwise, from my point of view, it was fun to pretend to house hunt. In the homes facing High Street, balconies overlook the shops, which wouldn’t exactly make for quiet living if management plans celebrations with live music every weekend. Just thought you should know that, if you’re seriously looking…

Before we toured the condos, we ate at a Japanese steakhouse called Saito’s, which may not have been fully prepared to address large crowds at dinnertime. Service at the hibachi table we sat at was semi-poor, meaning it was late and the waitress kept apologizing for being late or not getting our orders in at all. You’re sitting there kind of at the whim of service in these cases, so what do you say to that? I’m not one to yell or get upset about such things, unless I specifically let service know ahead of time I’m in a hurry, which we weren’t. But the meal was great, and the mai tai cocktails tasty and potent.

After one of our table mates complained about slow service, virtually no entertainment by our hibachi chef (While other tables were whooping it up with their chefs’ antics, all we got was an onion volcano.), and other things I couldn’t overhear, the manager gave everyone at our table a 50 percent discount, and you couldn’t complain about that! Besides, I think we gave the restaurant the benefit of the doubt, for opening day jitters. And since the manager did address all of us at the table personally, telling us she’ll focus more on training, asking us–with a smile and friendly manner–to please come back again, I think I would return. Besides, sitting there at the table made me miss Ayako’s of Tokyo. For those of you who might recall this Biltmore Fashion Park favorite, you’ll know what I mean.

During our visit, we also walked around to window shop (basic upscale chain stores, a few boutiques) and check out the bands–all music styles covered: country, contemporary rock, and Mariachi (an all-woman band). I did read that a few anchor stores, Bloomingdale’s (the first in Arizona) and Nordstrom, will be opening there soon, but we only saw evidence of Nordstrom–there was sign that advertised this. Despite the economic slow-down, my guess is this place will become a busy site this holiday season–once people realize it’s open.

All in all, I enjoyed my Sunday evening exploring a new entertainment venue.

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

Owned by the Huntress Family, the Sugar Bowl has been serving ice cream, including its famous Banana Split, since opening day on December 24, 1958.

The shop has been featured many times in the nationally syndicated cartoon strip, “Family Circus,” created by Bil Keane. The cartoon artist, who lives in nearby Paradise Valley, is a fan. You can see original drawings from the cartoon strip, framed and signed by Keane, on the walls and inside the menu at the ice cream parlor located on Scottsdale Road.

This past week, I visited the Sugar Bowl while on a shopping feature assignment with Voyageur magazine, the award-winning publication for Carlson Hotels Worldwide. After my work was done, I slipped inside the ice cream parlor to enjoy the one item on the menu I always order there–the popular Sugar Bowl Treat Banana Split. Like I said, who needs a special day for this. Any day is a good day for ice cream in my world.

This one’s made pretty much the way you’d think a banana split would be made–in a bowl, with the banana split down the middle and separated, vanilla and ice cream in between, strawberry and pineapple sauce poured over the ice cream, then the whole sweet treat topped out with whipped cream and a cherry. It tastes as good as it sounds. The best part is the mix of both vanilla AND chocolate ice cream. But not just any chocolate. It’s Dutch chocolate, and extra smooth. I love it!

I know fall is just around the corner, but it’s still pretty warm here in Arizona. Next time you’re in Scottsdale, especially if it’s real soon, stop in at the Sugar Bowl and tell the waitress you’ll have whatever’s popular. My guess is you’ll have what I had:

What: Sugar Bowl Treat Banana Split, $5.75 (not including tax and tip)

Where: Sugar Bowl

Address: 4005 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale

Phone: 480-946-0051

Web site: http://www.sugarbowlscottsdale.com

(Photo above by Jackie Dishner.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

Perfect day to drive up north, I thought.

And sure enough. It was hot outside, but in my air-conditioned car, the drive along the Desert Foothills Scenic Drive–the six or so miles of Scottsdale Road after you pass Pinnacle Peak–was comfortable and perfect. I was so busy being mesmerized by the scenery–the mountain vistas, desert plants, desert sky–that I turned off the road too soon and had to make a U-turn back to Spanish Village–That’s the shopping area where I promised to meet my boyfriend so I could join him this time at the Black Mountain Coffee Shop on Ho Hum Road.

If you’re new to the area, don’t know what to do on a Sunday afternoon, but want something leisurely, I recommend this drive. It’s not only going to take you to an old fashioned coffee shop where the cinnamon rolls look and taste like they were baked right on the farm–and you have to pay cash for your meal–but it’s also going to give you glimpses of some of the area’s most beautiful scenery–the McDowell Mountains on the east, The Boulders up ahead, Black Mountain on the West, and Tonto National Forest further north–not to mention the desert flora and fauna right beside you on the road.

You’ll also pass MacDonald’s Ranch where you can sign up for trail rides, El Pedregal if you want to shop for expensive jewelry and home furnishings, Heard Museum North for your Native American art fix, The Boulders resort where you can stop in for a facial at the spa, and then you reach the two towns of Cave Creek and Carefree.

Back in the 60s, when this short stretch of the road was first named “scenic”–and not all of it was paved–there wasn’t much up here you could call civilization. Most of it was wild and woolly desert. Today, the road is a 4-lane highway, and there are plenty of residential communities and shopping centers to go around. Times have certainly changed.

But preservationists back then realized the importance of saving the views and some parts of the desert. This designated scenic drive is the result of that dedicated activism. Along the way, you’ll see several redwood signs, low to the ground and unobtrusive. On them are the names of the plants on the side of the road. You may miss a few if you’re driving too fast, but for the ones you catch, they’ll teach you names of the plants, trees and cacti that grow naturally in the region. You might see the ironwood sign, or the jojoba sign, or maybe one that points out where the catclaw grows. The visitor exhibit tells the full story. To find that, watch for the “Desert Foothills Scenic Drive” sign about 1 and 1/2 miles north of Pinnacle Peak Road. It’ll be on the east side of the road.

If you’re coming from the airport, from downtown, or Old Town Scottsdale, turn north onto Scottsdale Road and keep driving north. Once you pass Loop 101, you’ll be about 10 minutes away.

Not just for Sundays, however, the road’s open daily, 24/7.   

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

Every big city has its unique neighborhoods, or the neighborhoods that define a specific culture or two. Being so close to the Mexican border, we have our fair share of ‘hoods that define the Hispanic culture.

One of them is in South Phoenix–not necessarily the safest place to play. But tucked away in a hidden corner, is something you might want to see–El Gran Mercado. For a little adventure and a place to practice your Spanish verbs, pick a weekend afternoon to drive over to 35th Avenue and Buckeye. That’s where you’ll find this secret gem. On the south side of the street, watch for the wooden sign on the sidewalk that says Entrada. Turn there. You’ll have to pay for parking, but they don’t charge admission till after 7 p.m.

Inside, you’ll see an authentic Spanish marketplace (reminiscent of what you might find in Guadalajara) hidden behind a palm tree grove on the south side of Buckeye. It’s safe to shop and stroll here. You’ll be with friendly people who are happy to have you. Underneath covered awnings, you’ll find auto parts, tools, women’s clothing on mannequins, men’s clothing folded, Western wear (leather boots, belts and lassos), kitchen appliances, furniture, fresh fruit and vegetables, Mexican music on CDs and cassettes, used cars, and so much more. With most of the signage in Spanish, it really feels as if you’ve crossed the border. As you make your way through the crowds, watch out for the baby strollers. If it’s not too hot outside, you might make it to all 350 vendors. If nothing else, be sure to catch the live music. Bands play on two different stages. And later in the evening, there’s dancing.

You can also play billiards, get your hair cut at the outdoor barber shop, eat roasted corn on the cob (They cover it in lots of butter and offer grated goat cheese and hot sauce as condiments.), drink ice cold Coronas, watch a wrestling match, and have your shoes shined.

I must admit that I probably would never have known about this place if it weren’t for a friend, Tim Nelson. He happens to be running for political office and was giving a speech here last weekend. My boyfriend and I went to hear what he had to say, and we really enjoyed our visit.

And thanks to Tim, if I ever need a piñata the size of my front door, I’ll know where to go.

What: El Gran Mercado
Where: 1820 S. 35th Avenue
When: Saturdays & Sundays, 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Admission/Parking: Free until    7 p.m., then it’s $3/person. Parking is $3.

(Photos above taken by Jackie Dishner at the Mercado.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

To make this kind of long weekend even more affordable, book a suite or a room with a mini kitchen and stock up on food items to save on your dining-out costs. Not that you skip dining out altogether, but plan to hang out at the resort pool and bring your own picnic meal with you once or twice. Or, skip room service and microwave a meal or two. You can find good buys and vacation-ready meals in Phoenix–and other locations in Arizona, Southern California and Nevada–at the new Fresh & Easy neighborhood markets. They’ve been springing up all over Phoenix this past year.

My boyfriend and daughter both had been raving about them, and I finally got my chance to step inside of one recently to check things out. Sure enough, I left the store, spending nearly $150 on fresh-made meals that I’ve been munching on all week long. From fresh organic fruit to homemade meals that I’ve just popped in the microwave, I’ve saved a bundle on what would normally be my dining out dollars.

I brought home macaroni & cheese, meatballs, fresh pasta and sauces, and a host of other homemade items . Plus, I found a decent supply of toiletries. The stores are compact enough that you won’t get lost in the aisles, and your choices aren’t so many that you won’t be able to decide.

Even better, I was able to pick up some really good wines for less than $10 each. One of my new favorites is a Pinot Grigio Prosecco–a light sparkling wine that I can see would serve a couple well on the balcony of a hotel overlooking a garden, pool or city view. If you like reds, you can bring home any number of bargain-priced–and award-winning–wines, including the Hilltown Sauvignon Blanc or the South American Malbec from Recoleta that is made exclusively for Fresh & Easy. I suggest tossing a bottle in your backpack and taking a hike through the resort property of your choice until you find the perfect spot to pop the cork and enjoy.

If you’re planning your affordable staycation in Phoenix, here is a list of Fresh & Easy stores that may be near you:

Dysart & Thomas, Avondale

107th Ave. & Thomas, Avondale

Alma School & Elliot Rd., Chandler

Ray & Kyrene, Chandler

Higley & Guadalupe, Gilbert

Higley & Ray, Gilbert

59th Avenue & Olive, Glendale

Alma School & University, Mesa

Brown & Recker, Mesa

Crismon & Guadalupe, Mesa

Apache Trail & Ellsworth, Mesa

Stapley & McKellips, Mesa

Sossaman & Southern, Mesa

12th Street & Northern, Phoenix

19th Avenue & Baseline, Phoenix

32nd Street & Greenway, Phoenix

35th Avenue & Greenway, Phoenix

Frank Lloyd Wright & Shea, Scottsdale

And soon to open: 7th Street & Thunderbird, Phoenix

(Photo used with permission by Fresh & Easy, provided by its marketing firm, Wagstaff Worldwide.)

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler

Some of the savings you’ll see include discount travel packages at various hotels, free appetizers at participating restaurants, dollars off on massage therapies, discounts on theater tickets and tour packages, shopping incentives at upscale malls, and even a free lunch.

It might be worth a visit.

Post from: The Phoenix Traveler