The Phoenix Traveler

Just a three hour drive from Phoenix sits a tiny town with a history that may have helped keep the Arizona Territory from gaining statehood in the late 1800s, according to history books.

That town is called Young, and I traveled there this past weekend to do research for my upcoming book, Backroads & Byways of Arizona (Countryman Press, 2009).

Formerly known as  Pleasant Valley, it was the site of what became one of the state’s most bloodiest family feuds. Between the Tewksbury and Graham families, it was called the Pleasant Valley War. And although the bloodbath began in Pleasant Valley, it extended north of the Mogollon Rim and to as far away south as Tempe–where the final ambush occurred.

With several versions written about the feud, it’s not clearly known whether the 20 or so deaths occurred because of a fight between ranchers and sheep herders, or whether the quarreling families were just too stubborn to let it go. Initially, you see, the families were friends, the Tewksburys having invited  the Grahams from California to come to the Pleasant Valley area in the Tonto Basin and buy into ranching. With large pastures of green grass and water from the creeks, this place south of the Mogollon Rim was perfect for ranching in the late 1880s. About 34 years later, the romance of the town’s tragedy (not to mention the hunting and fishing) drew Western author Zane Grey, who then wrote about the feud in his novel, To the Last Man.

But, what started out as a friendship between men turned into a brawl that left the two families nearly wiped out by ambushes and bullets flying into thin air, cabins and torsos. Pleasant Valley is now the home of old burial grounds and tall tales, and several people who no longer mind sharing what they know and the artifacts they’ve been able to salvage.

It’s also home to some of the states most scenic beauty, which makes it hard to believe the area has such a tragic past. But you can learn more about it if you visit on the third weekend of July, during Pleasant Valley Days. That’s the only time the local museums are open. During other times, if you can find a map online, you can still visit grave sites at the Young Cemetery of the original Graham brothers killed, along with others on their side. A few men from the Tewksbury side are buried  on federal land, as is the lone Navajo sheepherder–the first death that occurred because of the feud.

Aside from its curious history, what draws visitors to Young is this: hunting, fishing, cabin retreats, camping and a quiet lifestyle. The largest  employer is the Ranger Station. It’s population is less than 600, made up of the ranchers and retirees. Many folks from the Valley of the Sun, Phoenix, that is, have second homes there.

Aside from the cattle ranches that still roam the countryside between Hell’s Gate and the Sierra Ancha Wilderness, Young is home to wildlife, such as elk, deer, wild turkey, mountain lions and black bear. It’s also a great spot to see wildflowers. Something else you’ll notice as you come into town are the windmills. They’re everywhere.

Even if you aren’t an avid hunter looking for your next taxidermy conquest, or even if you don’t know how to fish or pitch a tent, Young is a great spot to take a weekend break. It’s beautiful. It’s quiet. And once you hit State Route 288, coming from Globe, you’re in for the backroads scenic drive of your life. They don’t call this one “From the Desert to the Pines” for nothing.

Oh, and don’t worry. You probably know Arizona gained statehood in 1912.

(Photos taken by Jackie Dishner.) 

To get there: From the south on SR 188 outside of Globe and before you reach Roosevelt Lake, take a right onto SR 288, head north for 47 miles to Young. It’s now a mostly paved road. A more cumbersome route can be reached via SR 512 out of Payson on SR 260.

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